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FEDERATION OF WESTERN OUTDOOR CLUBS







4
    
FIXED CLIMBING ANCHORS ON FEDERAL LANDS





Traditional mountain climbing and sport climbing are appropriate uses of the wilderness.  These activities should continue to be allowed in national parks and national forests, as well as on all comparable federal and state lands.


In response to the "Advance Draft Notice of Proposed Rulemaking" issued by the National Park Service and to the related "Draft Regulations of Fixed Anchors in Wilderness" by the U.S. Forest Service; with respect to the use of fixed climbing anchors in National Parks and in Congressionally-established wilderness study areas, climbers in the Western U.S. recommended that:


Resource Management Policies for climbing site resources, and education of the respective resources staff officers and climber-users of the resources, should be addressed differently to reflect site-specific needs.


Safe climbing may require the use of fixed anchors.  Use of such anchors should be allowed at the discretion of the climber.  Fixed anchors should never be used when other forms of removable protection can be used safely.


To be used safely, established fixed anchors must be established and maintained.  To be used safely, established bolted routes must be maintained and upgraded.


Conservation of the alpine environments and protection of the related resources must be given high priority.  The education of climbers in resource protection is a key to the achieving protection of these values (e.g. of plant and wildlife communities, endangered species, cultural and archeological resources, etc.)


Any action to upgrade or augment holds should be expressly forbidden (e.g. chipping, gluing and gardening).


Use of power drills is unacceptable in wilderness areas except under special permission to replace old, unsafe bolts.


Creation of new bolted routes in national parks and wilderness areas should be reviewed and concurred-in by climbers, park officials and environmental constituents.


The planning for climbing management in areas of national parks, national forests, and wildernesses should be publicized and made open to the public.


The Federation of Western Outdoor Clubs supports the above recommendations concerning climbing in national parks, established wildernesses and wilderness study areas.  It will convey these recommendations to appropriate Federal authorities, such as the Chiefs of the Forest Service, Park Service, and the Bureau of Land Management.  The Federation requests its Members and Member Clubs to inform their respective federal legislators of their opinions on this matter.  As applicable, these climbing practices should be considered for adoption by climbers in comparable alpine environments in the rest of the U.S.



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